[NIHON BUNKA KENKYUU] BUNKEN 101: Reviews, comments, and insights on Japanese pop culture.
Proper kimono kitsuke is a must for anyone who wants to perfect the art of wearing traditional Japanese costumes. However, because kimono kitsuke is a time-consuming and expensive process, usually involving formal training at a kimono school, an easier way to learn is to start out with yukata kitsuke. The yukata is a lighter, more casual summer-time version of the kimono. It is usually made of dyed cotton, although lately polyester is also being used.
It is worn with a hanhaba obi (informal sash) and casual geta (sandals) without the tabi (white foot cover or socks) and other accessories of more formal kimono. Yukata are worn mostly in the summer when viewing fireworks festivals or participating in the Bon-odori. Certain types of yukata are also worn as sleepwear or as bathrobes in traditional inns known as ryokan, as well as most city hotels.
Parts of the Ladies Yukata
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?? – emon (apparel/dress) ??? – senui (back line) ?? – sodeguchi (cuff) ? – sode (sleeve) ???? – miyatsukuchi (waist opening) ? – eri (collar) ? – okumi (gusset) ?? – okumisen (gusset line) ?? – tomoeri (front collar) ? – yuki (sleeve length) ?? – erisaki (collar end) ?? – tsumashita (overlap rear) ?? – uwamae (top front) ?? – shitamae (bottom front) ?? – tsumasaki (overlap front) ??? – ushiro migoro (back portion) |
Wearing the Ladies Yukata
Start out with a freshly pressed yukata, sprayed generously with starch and ironed at the right setting. Ladies, be sure to wear the proper underwear, such as a hadagi, but wearing a nice white camisole over your bra and underpants is also fine.
1) Hold the two collar ends (erisaki) with the right hand. Place the yukata to the right side and take a step forward. Bring the yukata over the back of the body. Open it up.
2) Wear the yukata over the shoulders. Hold both overlaps with both hands away from the body. Hold the yukata tightly and lift it off the floor. Lower the yukata slowly to adjust its length. The skirting of the yukata is worn just above the ankles.
3) Continue to hold the yukata tightly. Bring the left overlap over the body and adjust its width such that its edge runs along the right point of the hipbone. Open up the left overlap and bring the right overlap over the body. Lift the end of the right overlap by about 3-5cm.
4) Bring the left overlap over the right overlap and hold its end with the right hand. Take the first waist sash (koshi himo) with the left hand. Remove any creases around the stomach and waist and back with the left hand. Tie the koshi himo around the waist.
5) Insert both hands into the openings under the arm (miyatsuguchi). Use both hands to remove any creases around the waist on both the back and front of the body. Hold the centre line (se nui) on the back with the left hand and adjust the distance between the collar and neck by pulling the collar ends with the right hand. Please note that the distance between the collar and the neck should be the size of a clenched fist.
6) Bring the upper left overlap over the upper right overlap. Tie the upper overlaps with a second koshi himo. Check that the top and bottom parts are aligned. Check the se nui on the back. Wear the obi ita on the front of the body to secure the shape of the obi.
Tying the Obi for Ladies
Hanhaba obi are very simple casual obi, but are nevertheless usually patterned on either side; choose the side that you would like as the base, so the other side can serve as the accent.
1) Hold the obi with both hands. Place the obi over the back of the body. Measure approximately 15-20cm of the short end (tesaki) of the obi over the left shoulder. Stretch the tesaki end of the obi with the right hand. Hold the point between the right hand and body with the left hand.
2) Fold the part of the obi between the two hands onto half of the obi width. Bring over the folded tesaki end of the obi over the obi ita. Wind the long end (tare) of the obi around the obi ita once. Pull the tesaki end to the right side.
3) Place the tesaki end over the tare end. Tie the two ends. Fold the tare end into 3 folds. Fold the center of the tare end into 3 folds. Fold the tesaki end around the tare fold. Fold the tesaki end around the tare fold again and tuck in any excess.
4) Move the obi tie to the back of the body with the right hand and while the left hand holds on to the obi ita. The obi ita stays in the front of the body. The obi tie is worn on the back of the body.
Seiza – Correct Posture while Sitting on the Floor
Sit with shins folded under you, with the big toe of one foot sitting on the other (it is also acceptable for the big toes are side by side). The knees are about one fist apart for men, and close together for women.
The back is straight, but not over-straightened so as to bow the belly outward unnaturally. Nor should you be hunched over. The chin is very slightly tucked in so that, if seen from the side, the top of the head is in a plumb line with the ear lobes, the shoulder, and the center of the body. Seen from the front, the centerline should run straight down the top of the head through the nose, Adam's apple, navel, to the seika tanden, or lower center point.
For gents, the hands hang naturally at the side, with the palms placed on the upper thigh. The fingers are close together. The arms are slightly rounded. The armpits are slightly bowed, as if holding an egg under them. Too open, and the egg falls out. Too tight, and your arms crush the eggshells. For ladies, it is advisable to fold your hands primly one on top of the other on your laps.
Additional Sources:
www.aiahome.or.jp
www.japaneselifestyle.com.au
www.furyu.com